Robert Talbott to Bring Its California Aesthetic to Pitti Uomo

Sebastian Dollinger’s next chapter is about to begin.

Dollinger, who spent 15 years as the creative director of Eton, the Swedish shirt brand, joined Robert Talbott earlier this year to spearhead its creative efforts as part of a relaunch of the venerable American brand. His first collection, for the spring 2025 season, will be showcased at Pitti Uomo in what will mark the debut appearance of Robert Talbott at the Florence trade show.

Robert Talbott was founded by Robert and Audrey Talbott, who left the East Coast with their son Robb in 1950 and moved to Carmel, Calif., where they started a business based on Audrey Talbott’s skill creating handcrafted silk neckwear. The company eventually expanded into furnishings, men’s made-to-measure tailored clothing, knitwear, sportswear, leathers and womenswear. Robert Talbott died in 1986 and Audrey ran the business until her death in 2004, when it was passed to Robb. The brand went through a series of owners before being purchased in 2021 by Newtimes Group, a 60-year-old privately owned supply chain management firm based in Hong Kong. Newtimes relaunched the brand last year under the direction of its chief executive officer Alex Angelchik with a wide-ranging collection of shirts and foundational pieces.

Angelchik brought Dollinger on board to offer a fresh perspective and contemporary flair to the company’s heritage.

Sebastian Dollinger

Sebastian Dollinger

Hannes Soderlund

Dollinger’s first collection manages to blend Robert Talbott’s casual yet refined aesthetic with a modern sophistication through a collection of shirts, ties and elevated sportswear.

“After attending the fair for 18 years, it feels like a full-circle journey to return to Pitti as Robert Talbott’s creative director,” Dollinger said. “It’s an incredible opportunity to share our vision with a global audience of industry insiders, retailers and media.”

That vision is built on returning to the roots of the brand and offering “one of the best and most technically diverse shirt collections” that “defines who we are and who we want to be.” Because of the bandwidth of Newtimes, a private label manufacturer that lands $2 billion in goods in North America every year, “we will present the best shirt that a man can buy,” Dollinger said. ”Our team has meticulously crafted one of the best and most technically diverse shirt collections globally. From the capacities of our supply chain to the final product, we’ve set a new standard of excellence in the industry. This collection exemplifies creativity and quality in every aspect, from the ground structures to the performance, cut and sew, patterns, prints and styling.”

The dress shirts, which are made from Italian fabrics, feature single-needle tailoring, rotated armholes for enhanced comfort and side gussets at key stress points. The sport shirts offer allover prints and intricate detailing designed with Italian print experts or are made from linen sourced from Normandy, France, featuring the brand’s signature one-piece California collar in a variety of colors. Dollinger has also reimagined the oxford in a washed fabric with a locker loop and front pocket available in solids, stripes and novelty prints, including a floral.

Robert Talbott colorful shirt

A colorful shirt from Robert Talbott’s spring 2025 collection.

courtesy of Robert Talbott

In addition to the shirts, there will also be a limited collection of knitwear, chinos and five-pocket pants, unconstructed blazers, and an assortment of neckwear featuring the brand’s iconic sevenfold tie. Dollinger said he went back to the manufacturers Robert Talbott used to work with and pored through the archives to ensure all the core elements of the past were evident in the ties.

Price points are $225 to $295 for dress shirts, $265 to $295 for printed sport shirts, $275 to $295 for the linen shirts and $245 for the oxfords.

“With the spring/summer ‘25 collection, we’re not just presenting a range of garments; we’re defining a new era for Robert Talbott,” Dollinger added. “It’s about embracing our heritage while pushing boundaries and exploring new possibilities. This collection is a testament to our commitment to excellence and our unwavering dedication to creating pieces that inspire and elevate.”

Although Robert Talbott had experienced a number of bumps over the past few years, Newtimes aims to bring it back to its former glory. Dollinger said in addition to its core of U.S. and Canadian retail customers, showing at Pitti will also allow the company to explore international markets, namely Europe. And with Newtimes as its owner, potential customers can be assured that the brand has finally found a committed owner. As Angelchik said: “As we embark on this new chapter, we’ll invest where it counts — in consistently good products, at good prices, delivered on time.”

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