MILAN — Against a rocky landscape for the luxury sector at large, Italian menswear has so far proved resilient, with exports in the seven months ended July 31 up 2.7 percent to 5.5 billion euros.
Unveiling in Milan on Wednesday the program for the upcoming edition of menswear trade fair Pitti Uomo, which will take place in Florence between Jan. 14 and 17, figures provided by Sistema Moda Italia on the men’s sector’s performance in the period left space for some optimistic forecasts.
“It’s a moment of transition for fashion. We can’t deny it, it’s a complex landscape and the Italian supply chain is feeling the impact of [sluggish] orders made six months ago,” said Antonio De Matteis, chief executive officer of Kiton and the president of Pitti Uomo organizer Pitti Immagine.
“I’m sure the men’s fashion sector and fashion at large can overcome moments like this. I want to send a positive message,” he said.
Evenly split between intra- and extra-European destinations, menswear exports in the first seven months of 2024 were driven by France, up 11 percent, and the U.S., up 3.4 percent. Surprisingly, amid reports of sluggish sales in the country, exports to China jumped 37.2 percent, making it the fourth destination for Italian men’s fashion.
These increases partially offset the negative performance of exports to such countries as the U.K., down 8.2 percent; Germany, which decreased 3.5 percent, and South Korea, down 6.9 percent.
According to Matteo Zoppas, president of the Italian Trade Agency, or ITA, the U.S. should benefit from a longer-term prospect of stability in the wake of the recent presidential elections and the appetite for Italian luxury and fashion goods is expected to bounce back even more strongly.
By contrast, imports decreased by 10 percent to 3.5 billion euros in the January-to-July period, highlighting a slower manufacturing activity in the country this year compared to the same period in 2023. In particular, imports from the first three supplier countries — Bangladesh, China, and France — were down 17.5 percent, 23.2 percent and 7.8 percent, respectively.
Zoppas reiterated that the Italian government is committed to standing by fashion players in the country, especially the thousands of small- and medium-sized enterprises that make up the backbone of Italy’s supply chain.
Street style at Pitti Uomo 105.
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD
As reported, in a sign of confidence about the sector’s resilience, Pitti Uomo organizers have prepared a full agenda of events for the trade show’s upcoming edition. Guests designers including MM6 Maison Margiela and Setchu, as well as the new Knees Up Running Space dedicated to running brands and their communities, will flank the 790 exhibiting companies, 46 percent of which hail from abroad.
