EXCLUSIVE: Elie Saab Names Marina Raphael Artistic and Design Director of Handbags

LONDON — Elie Saab is ramping up its handbag division and has named Marina Raphael its artistic and design director of the category, WWD has learned. 

The Greek Austrian designer, who is a sixth-generation Swarovski family member, will remain creative director of her eponymous label that she founded in 2017.

“I have long admired Mr. Saab’s remarkable vision, his exceptional craftsmanship, and the meticulous attention to detail he brings to each creation. Our initial discussions about expanding the handbag category began last year, and this February in Paris, I was honored when Elie Jr. extended this extraordinary opportunity to me,” said Raphael, who is based in Athens, where her label’s headquarters are located.

She will be traveling to Paris regularly in her new role for meetings, key events and Paris Fashion Week. Elie Saab has showrooms in Paris, Milan and Beirut.

At Elie Saab she will present six handbag collections a year: four ready-to-wear collections and two haute couture collections.

Raphael’s debut will be presented at the Elie Saab haute couture show in Paris in January. She will be working closely with the brand’s founder and creative director on the collection. 

“Mr. Saab’s continued guidance will ensure that each piece remains true to the brand’s DNA while bringing a fresh perspective to the collection,” Elie Saab Jr., chief executive officer of Elie Saab Group, told WWD in an interview.

He added that the business is paying special attention to the handbags category.

“The accessories market — particularly the handbag sector — represents an ever-growing opportunity, and we are looking forward to establishing a stronger foothold within it. While handbags are already part of our product portfolio, we believe now is the optimal time to dedicate focused effort toward expanding this category and developing a distinct, recognizable identity that resonates with our customers,” Saab Jr. explained.

The business said it is committing “substantial resources — both financial and creative” toward scaling the handbags category globally. The first step in the strategy is to increase visibility by partnering with new retail partners.

“We plan to showcase this line notably in our flagship stores and integrate it into our runway shows and major events. Through these efforts we aim to reinforce visibility and establish Elie Saab handbags as a key component of our brand’s identity,” Saab Jr. said.

The appointment of Raphael at the Lebanese brand is a fitting one.

Both brands share a penchant for maximalism and don’t shy away from the use of crystals, leather, suede, feathers or velvet. They also have an overlapping clientele of famous faces that includes Queen Maxima of the Netherlands, Jessica Alba, Megan Fox, Katie Holmes and Jennifer Lopez.

“Marina’s expertise in the handbag sector was immediately evident, as she has proven her capability in building a successful handbag business. With an in-depth understanding of the Elie Saab brand and a unique skill in capturing and interpreting the Elie Saab aesthetic, she was a natural fit for this role,” Saab Jr. said.

Raphael’s business defied 2020 market challenges during the pandemic and thrived. Her online sales skyrocketed.

“We had steady growth, but during the period of the first lockdown, from March to early June, we had more sales than we had in the last two years since our brand launched. It was a huge boost for the brand, almost like a fast-track ticket,” she told WWD in 2020.

Since then she’s sustained her business and has collaborated with Swarovski on a Valentine’s Day capsule collection of candy-heart colored bedazzled handbags and recently launched a collaboration with Georgia Medley, the celebrity stylist, who has worked with the likes of Michaela Coel, Venus Williams and Yvonne Orji.