If you’re looking for a well-made outerwear piece to invest in, dial Gabriele Colangelo.
The Italian designer might not be on Milan’s hype radar, but his signature understated approach to luxury and sartorial prowess never fail to attract attention. For pre-fall 2025, he delivered another convincing lineup, which put a strong emphasis on tailored coats, functional trenchcoats and sophisticated takes on bomber jackets and anoraks.
Working with a palette of shades of green, charcoal gray and cerulean, in addition to his favorite buttery hue, Colangelo infused a urban-chic flair in a bonded trenchcoat with a removable cape that offered a two-in-one wardrobe solution, as well as elevated bomber jackets with a twist by cutting them from satin and opening their sleeves and cocooning volume with zippers.
Fluid blousons and padded options added to the leisure vibe Colangelo wanted to embrace. Yet his tailored pieces continued to stand out for their construction, this time enhanced by the hourglass shape he chiseled into long wool coats. While most pieces let lines and the top-quality fabrications speak, Colangelo also indulged in subtle embellishments in an evening alternative with embroidered rounded cutouts. This motif also lent an arty touch to a delicate organza skirt and slipdress that further highlighted his skill.
A lingerie-nodding dress combining a knitted top with a cady skirt; bias-cut fluid frocks and cozy knitted separates in different gauges were also standouts. A handmade tank top and matching pencil skirt interweaving knit and leather strips didn’t make it to the look book images but deserved the spotlight, too.
